Labbeye

L'Abbeye Issue I : the first chapter of the archive is now open for pre-order

A 400+ page coffee-table object documenting avant-garde fashion as philosophy, not trend. Standard edition 55€, Collector x Isaac Sellam 395€, 200 numbered copies.

The Threshold

RECOMMENDED FOR YOU :

Ectopic

THE GENESIS OF EMILIA

GROTESQUE BEAUTY

Dissecting fashion's relationship with distorted, dark, and deformed imagery

Dark Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

HOW MCQUEEN MADE THE FASHION INDUSTRY DESCEND INTO MADNESS

A retrospective look at Alexander McQueen’s ‘Voss’ Collection.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

SILENCE IN A LOUD INDUSTRY: THE RISE OF ANONYMOUS FASHION

Anonymous fashion is quietly reshaping the industry. Inspired by the legacy of Martin Margiela and embodied by designers like Carol Christian Poell and Aleksandr Manamïs, this movement rejects celebrity culture and returns focus to craftsmanship, material, and form.

Dark Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory

The Avant-Garde Fashion Rite

When Fashion stops presenting clothes and starts staging ceremonies.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN: THE FASHION DESIGNER WHO INVENTED WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY BEFORE AI

From transforming furniture into dresses to garments embedded with motors, lasers, and microchips, Hussein Chalayan revolutionized the relationship between fashion and technology. This article explores how the British-Cypriot designer became one of the earliest pioneers of wearable tech and conceptual fashion.

Art| Eco Fashion| Fashion Theory| Futuristic

‘A WALK IN THE FOREST’ WITH ANTONIO FEMIA

Womenswear designer Antonio Femia looks to the hometown forests in Belgium for his graduate collection at Central Saint Martins. Bridget Devine discovers more about his ritualistic design universe...

Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory| Interviews

MISTAKING STONE FOR SKY

Art| Dark Fashion| Editorial| Emerging Designers| Grotesque Beauty

EXPLORING THEMES OF ROMANCE THROUGH THE AVANT-GARDE

Why gothic romance literature and media are at the root of the avant-garde scene

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

Pauline Dujancourt

Design| Emerging Designers

CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL: AGAINST FASHION, THROUGH FASHION

For those stepping into the avant-garde realm of fashion, Carol Christian Poell is an essential figure. Though now retired, his legacy endures. Through radical construction, cryptic processes, and garments that confront both the body and time, his influence continues to shape the fashion world.

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

MAINSTREAM DOWNSTREAM

In June 2003, along the quiet waters of Milan’s Naviglio Grande, Carol Christian Poell staged one of the most haunting fashion presentations of the 21st century. Far from the conventional runway, his Spring/Summer 2004 show unfolded on the surface of a canal, where garments and models alike drifted in silence, part procession, part apparition. Echoing the spectral stillness of Millais’s Ophelia, Poell’s vision transformed fashion into ritual, decay into desire, and garments into relics. This article revisits that unforgettable moment, where control gave way to current, and fashion, freed from speed and spectacle…

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

Neo Gothic and Neo Futurism

One aesthetic mourns the past. The other imagines the future. Between neo-gothic and neo-futurism, contemporary fashion continues to seek meaning anywhere but in the present.

Dark Fashion| Futuristic| Soft Goth

FLESH AS ARCHITECTURE

Flesh As Architecture explores the human body as a constructed form rather than a living subject. e body is treated as a site of erosion - a ruin shaped by time, weight, and stillness. Through restrained movement and sculptural poses, flesh becomes structural. Limbs echo columns, joints resemble supports, and skin carries the surface of decay. What remains is not emotion, but form. The body no longer performs; it stands, monumental and silent, a ruin transformed into a statue.

TOP 10 ARTICLES :

1

INTERVIEW : VICTOR CLAVELLY'S SURREAL FASHION LORE

2

CORROSION AS CRAFT: RETHINKING FASHION THROUGH DECAY

3

THE GOTHIC REBIRTH OF MINIMALISM

4

THE EVOLUTION OF AVANT-GARDE IN FASHION

5

THE PASSERBY

6

HOW MCQUEEN MADE THE FASHION INDUSTRY DESCEND INTO MADNESS

7

WHAT "AVANT-GARDE" REALLY MEANS IN FASHION

8

EXPLORING THE UNTAPPED POTENTIAL OF FISH SKIN FOR FASHION: INTERVIEW WITH ISABELLE TAYLOR

9

LONG LIVE THE NEW FLESH: 6 TIMES DAVID CRONENBERG INSPIRED RUNWAY DESIGNERS

ARCHIVES :

Ectopic

The Threshold

Archives as Garments: In or Out?

A pressed flower keeps its shape but loses its life, is that what happens to fashion once it enters the archive? Through McQueen's satire, Margiela's cloned relics, and Kawakubo's outright refusal, three of fashion's most radical minds ask whether preservation is actually killing the craft.

The Circus Girl

Pauline Dujancourt

Design| Emerging Designers

The Shape of Belonging

Egúngún masqueraders, Benin. Elaborately layered costumes conceal the performers’ identities, transforming them into figures of ancestral ritual.

Between Reins and Teeth

Following the death of the last horse in a stable, a man reveals a ritualistic scene, shaped by grief and the human-animal bond.

Cinema| Editorial

Weight of Despair

The Emotional Weight of Loss, Migration, and Memory. How Historical Trauma Transformed into Fashion.

The Avant-Garde Fashion Rite

When Fashion stops presenting clothes and starts staging ceremonies.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

Untitled, Untethered, Undefined

The new Dover Street Market brand was launched in June with the SS 26 collection of DSM Kei Ninomiya.

See all the archives editorials