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ELENA DAWSON : THE GARDEN OF FORGOTTEN MEMORIES, A BOTANICAL ELEGY OF SOFTH GOTHIC

Elena Dawson is not a brand. It is a state of being, a phenomenon whose aura resists all attempts at categorization within fashion’s coordinate systems. Her creative work is a secluded sanctuary, a chapel on the outskirts of the industry. Here, a particular, deeply intimate romance is born : the romance of a soft gothic, devoid of vampiric pomp and grotesquery, yet imbued with Victorian melancholy and the stoic grace of decay.

RECOMMENDED FOR YOU :

TO BE WORN OR TO BE WATCHED

In light of recent exhibitions like Demna’s retrospective at the Kering headquarters and Rick Owens’ Temple of Love, we explore the tension between fashion as something to be worn and fashion as something to be preserved and exhibited.

Art| Fashion Theory

THE INFLUENCES OF SUBCULTURES IN RICK OWENS' ART

Rick Owens draws from the shadows of musical subcultures, transforming their raw energy into a sculptural aesthetic. His work carries the spirit of underground movements, rebellious, ritualistic, and imbued with a dark romanticism. These influences do more than just inspire him; they form the backbone of his language. So what are they?

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

MISTAKING STONE FOR SKY

Art| Dark Fashion| Editorial| Emerging Designers| Grotesque Beauty

HOW SOCIAL MEDIA IS SHAPING THE AVANT-GARDE FASHION NARRATIVE

Once confined to galleries and runways, experimental fashion now thrives in pixels, posts, and the digital underground.

Dark Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory| Futuristic

THE PHILOSOPHY OF CONCEPTUAL FASHION : WHEN FASHION THINKS

What happens when fashion stops trying to please and starts to think? Between decay and emptiness, between Derrida and Rei Kawakubo, conceptual fashion can become a meditation: on truth, impermanence, and the self beneath appearance.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

HOW JAPANESE DESIGNERS SHAPED THE FUTURE OF AVANT-GARDE FASHION

Japanese designers redefined avant-garde by merging tradition, philosophy, and innovation. From deconstruction to minimalism, their influence reshaped Western fashion and continues to inspire a generation seeking authenticity over perfection.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Japanese Designers

EXPLORING THEMES OF ROMANCE THROUGH THE AVANT-GARDE

Why gothic romance literature and media are at the root of the avant-garde scene

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

‘A WALK IN THE FOREST’ WITH ANTONIO FEMIA

Womenswear designer Antonio Femia looks to the hometown forests in Belgium for his graduate collection at Central Saint Martins. Bridget Devine discovers more about his ritualistic design universe...

Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory| Interviews

MATERIAL INSTINCT: ZWYRTECH IN CONVERSATION WITH L’ABBEYE

Based in Warsaw, Zwyrtech blurs the line between jewellery and sculpture, embracing imperfection through a hands-on and exploratory process.

Accessories| Emerging Designers

MAINSTREAM DOWNSTREAM

In June 2003, along the quiet waters of Milan’s Naviglio Grande, Carol Christian Poell staged one of the most haunting fashion presentations of the 21st century. Far from the conventional runway, his Spring/Summer 2004 show unfolded on the surface of a canal, where garments and models alike drifted in silence, part procession, part apparition. Echoing the spectral stillness of Millais’s Ophelia, Poell’s vision transformed fashion into ritual, decay into desire, and garments into relics. This article revisits that unforgettable moment, where control gave way to current, and fashion, freed from speed and spectacle…

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

THE SUMMER IS COMING AND SO IS THE LAST JUDGMENT DAY: HOW TO DRESS "PROPERLY" ?

In summer, the body is no longer concealed. And dressing becomes a ritual of what we chose to elevate.

Fashion Theory

UNWEARABLE FUTURES : FASHION AS CONCEPTUAL ARCHITECTURE

Avant-garde designers like Iris van Herpen, Gareth Pugh and Hussein Chalayan are redefining fashion as architecture. In this emerging landscape of “unwearable fashion,” garments become sculptural experiments that challenge wearability, identity and the future of the human body.

Art| Fashion Theory| Futuristic

LONG LIVE THE NEW FLESH: 6 TIMES DAVID CRONENBERG INSPIRED RUNWAY DESIGNERS

To mark the release of The Shrouds, we revisit six moments when Cronenberg’s grotesque genius oozed into the world of fashion.

Cinema| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

ANNIE LENNOX: TEN LOOKS THROUGH THE LENS OF MUSIC AND IDENTITY

As she releases her Retrospective book, we chart the Eurythmics vocalist's looks across different musical eras, and how they shaped fashion, gender representation, and the visual vocabulary of pop.

Cinema| Fashion Theory

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN: THE FASHION DESIGNER WHO INVENTED WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY BEFORE AI

From transforming furniture into dresses to garments embedded with motors, lasers, and microchips, Hussein Chalayan revolutionized the relationship between fashion and technology. This article explores how the British-Cypriot designer became one of the earliest pioneers of wearable tech and conceptual fashion.

Art| Eco Fashion| Fashion Theory| Futuristic

TOP 10 ARTICLES :

1

INTERVIEW : VICTOR CLAVELLY'S SURREAL FASHION LORE

2

CORROSION AS CRAFT: RETHINKING FASHION THROUGH DECAY

3

THE GOTHIC REBIRTH OF MINIMALISM

4

THE EVOLUTION OF AVANT-GARDE IN FASHION

5

THE PASSERBY

6

HOW MCQUEEN MADE THE FASHION INDUSTRY DESCEND INTO MADNESS

7

WHAT "AVANT-GARDE" REALLY MEANS IN FASHION

8

EXPLORING THE UNTAPPED POTENTIAL OF FISH SKIN FOR FASHION: INTERVIEW WITH ISABELLE TAYLOR

9

LONG LIVE THE NEW FLESH: 6 TIMES DAVID CRONENBERG INSPIRED RUNWAY DESIGNERS

ARCHIVES :

THE SUMMER IS COMING AND SO IS THE LAST JUDGMENT DAY: HOW TO DRESS "PROPERLY" ?

In summer, the body is no longer concealed. And dressing becomes a ritual of what we chose to elevate.

Fashion Theory

NIKOLAS SCHRECK - THE RENAISSANCE MONSTER

Artist, writer, filmmaker and former Radio Werewolf frontman, Nikolas Schreck has spent decades exploring the intersections of music, ritual, cinema and mythology. In this in-depth conversation, he reflects on the legacy of Radio Werewolf, his collaboration with Christopher Lee, the controversy of Charles Manson Superstar, and his vision of art as spiritual transmission in an age of digital distraction.

FLESH AS ARCHITECTURE

Flesh As Architecture explores the human body as a constructed form rather than a living subject. e body is treated as a site of erosion - a ruin shaped by time, weight, and stillness. Through restrained movement and sculptural poses, flesh becomes structural. Limbs echo columns, joints resemble supports, and skin carries the surface of decay. What remains is not emotion, but form. The body no longer performs; it stands, monumental and silent, a ruin transformed into a statue.

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER AW25: ROAD TO NEVER

Editorial

MAINSTREAM DOWNSTREAM

In June 2003, along the quiet waters of Milan’s Naviglio Grande, Carol Christian Poell staged one of the most haunting fashion presentations of the 21st century. Far from the conventional runway, his Spring/Summer 2004 show unfolded on the surface of a canal, where garments and models alike drifted in silence, part procession, part apparition. Echoing the spectral stillness of Millais’s Ophelia, Poell’s vision transformed fashion into ritual, decay into desire, and garments into relics. This article revisits that unforgettable moment, where control gave way to current, and fashion, freed from speed and spectacle…

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

RAGS AND RICHES

Between memory and marketing, fashion has learned to fake its scars. As luxury brands sell dirt, rips, and wear at a high price, the Dirty Fit trend raises a deeper question: can authenticity be manufactured, or must it be lived? From inherited jewelry to torn runways, this article explores why real wear carries meaning and why pre-damaged fashion often rings hollow.

Eco Fashion| Fashion Theory

QUEERING THE UNIFORM : SUBVERSION, KINK AND THE MILITARISATION OF STYLE

Uniforms were meant to discipline bodies and erase individuality. Yet in the hands of avant-garde designers, they become something else entirely: instruments of desire, rebellion, and identity play. From the fragile adolescent tension of Raf Simons to the hyper-queer provocations of Walter van Beirendonck and the sleek militarised sensuality of Helmut Lang, the uniform is no longer a symbol of obedience but a stage where power, vulnerability, and eroticism collide.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

UNWEARABLE FUTURES : FASHION AS CONCEPTUAL ARCHITECTURE

Avant-garde designers like Iris van Herpen, Gareth Pugh and Hussein Chalayan are redefining fashion as architecture. In this emerging landscape of “unwearable fashion,” garments become sculptural experiments that challenge wearability, identity and the future of the human body.

Art| Fashion Theory| Futuristic

FASHION AS RITUAL: COSTUMING THE SACRED AND THE OCCULT

Fashion has always flirted with the sacred, but a new generation of designers is turning garments into rituals. From the techno-shamanic visions of House of Malakai to the monastic mythologies of Rick Owens, clothing becomes more than appearance, it becomes invocation. These pieces function like talismans, charged with symbolism, intention, and transformation. In an age of digital noise, fashion begins to reclaim its oldest power: ritual.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

7 PAIRS OF AVANT GARDE KILLER FOOTWEAR

Stepping on necks in terrifyingly beautiful shoes by designers like Rick Owens, Myah Hasbany, and Comme Des Garçons

Accessories| Dark Fashion| Emerging Designers| Futuristic| Japanese Designers

See all the archives editorials

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