Labbeye

L'Abbeye Issue I : the first chapter of the archive is now open for pre-order

A 400+ page coffee-table object documenting avant-garde fashion as philosophy, not trend. Standard edition 55€, Collector x Isaac Sellam 395€, 200 numbered copies.

Why Personality Fades Without the Avant-Garde

Breaking the Consumer Mindset and Reclaiming Personal Taste

RECOMMENDED FOR YOU :

GETTING TO THE BONES OF IT: WHEN MORBID CURIOSITY MEETS FASHION

Exploring the use of bones and skeletons as imagery and motifs across avant-garde fashion and design

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

QUEERING THE UNIFORM : SUBVERSION, KINK AND THE MILITARISATION OF STYLE

Uniforms were meant to discipline bodies and erase individuality. Yet in the hands of avant-garde designers, they become something else entirely: instruments of desire, rebellion, and identity play. From the fragile adolescent tension of Raf Simons to the hyper-queer provocations of Walter van Beirendonck and the sleek militarised sensuality of Helmut Lang, the uniform is no longer a symbol of obedience but a stage where power, vulnerability, and eroticism collide.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

FIVE UNDERRATED BRANDS YOU SHOULD KNOW

These five underrated brands are quietly reshaping fashion with bold ideas and unique visions. Discover who’s flying under the radar and why they deserve your attention now.

Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers

7 GOTHIC FRAGRANCES FAR FROM BORING

Want to smell like bloody birthday cake, chilly nights in London, and burnt blunt?

Dark Fashion| Soft Goth

Archives as Garments: In or Out?

A pressed flower keeps its shape but loses its life, is that what happens to fashion once it enters the archive? Through McQueen's satire, Margiela's cloned relics, and Kawakubo's outright refusal, three of fashion's most radical minds ask whether preservation is actually killing the craft.

REMEMBER ME WHEN I LEAVE

Editorial| Japanese Designers

THE PASSERBY

Dark Fashion| Editorial| Emerging Designers

EXPLORING THE UNTAPPED POTENTIAL OF FISH SKIN FOR FASHION: INTERVIEW WITH ISABELLE TAYLOR

Isabelle Taylor is a beautifully unconventional surrealist fashion designer specialising in fish leather, a sustainable material made from the byproducts of smoked salmon, which she uses to create garments through her brand, Skinned Potential.

Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory| Interviews

THE PHILOSOPHY OF CONCEPTUAL FASHION : WHEN FASHION THINKS

What happens when fashion stops trying to please and starts to think? Between decay and emptiness, between Derrida and Rei Kawakubo, conceptual fashion can become a meditation: on truth, impermanence, and the self beneath appearance.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

Ectopic

ANNIE LENNOX: TEN LOOKS THROUGH THE LENS OF MUSIC AND IDENTITY

As she releases her Retrospective book, we chart the Eurythmics vocalist's looks across different musical eras, and how they shaped fashion, gender representation, and the visual vocabulary of pop.

Cinema| Fashion Theory

The Avant-Garde Fashion Rite

When Fashion stops presenting clothes and starts staging ceremonies.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

THE EVOLUTION OF AVANT-GARDE IN FASHION

Tracing avant-garde’s path from its revolutionary roots of Elsa Schiaparelli, Rei Kawakubo, and McQueen to today’s branches of gothic elegance.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Japanese Designers

Pauline Dujancourt

Design| Emerging Designers

MAINSTREAM DOWNSTREAM

In June 2003, along the quiet waters of Milan’s Naviglio Grande, Carol Christian Poell staged one of the most haunting fashion presentations of the 21st century. Far from the conventional runway, his Spring/Summer 2004 show unfolded on the surface of a canal, where garments and models alike drifted in silence, part procession, part apparition. Echoing the spectral stillness of Millais’s Ophelia, Poell’s vision transformed fashion into ritual, decay into desire, and garments into relics. This article revisits that unforgettable moment, where control gave way to current, and fashion, freed from speed and spectacle…

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

TOP 10 ARTICLES :

1

INTERVIEW : VICTOR CLAVELLY'S SURREAL FASHION LORE

2

CORROSION AS CRAFT: RETHINKING FASHION THROUGH DECAY

3

THE GOTHIC REBIRTH OF MINIMALISM

4

THE EVOLUTION OF AVANT-GARDE IN FASHION

5

THE PASSERBY

6

HOW MCQUEEN MADE THE FASHION INDUSTRY DESCEND INTO MADNESS

7

WHAT "AVANT-GARDE" REALLY MEANS IN FASHION

8

EXPLORING THE UNTAPPED POTENTIAL OF FISH SKIN FOR FASHION: INTERVIEW WITH ISABELLE TAYLOR

9

LONG LIVE THE NEW FLESH: 6 TIMES DAVID CRONENBERG INSPIRED RUNWAY DESIGNERS

ARCHIVES :

Why Personality Fades Without the Avant-Garde

Breaking the Consumer Mindset and Reclaiming Personal Taste

GWERTHWYD (SOLD)

Final Collection - Home, A Self Study

The Roman Empire of Etymology

A History of Goth

What L'ABBEYE Keeps

Dover Street Market - AW26

Between Veils

The Photographer Who Made Avant-Garde Fashion Visible

How Nick Knight transformed fashion photography into a world of imagination and possibility.

Art| Fashion Theory

Scenes from an Unwritten Play

Rusted Dreams

Accessories| Editorial

From Alexander McQueen to Matières Fécales: Embracing Your Quirky, Offbeat, and Unique Side

Fashion's most unsettling silhouettes are not mistakes, they are refusals. A look at how the grotesque became one of style’s sharpest tools of dissent.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

See all the archives editorials