Labbeye

L'Abbeye Issue I : the first chapter of the archive is now open for pre-order

A 400+ page coffee-table object documenting avant-garde fashion as philosophy, not trend. Standard edition 55€, Collector x Isaac Sellam 395€, 200 numbered copies.

Lonesome Heaven

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Archives as Garments: In or Out?

A pressed flower keeps its shape but loses its life, is that what happens to fashion once it enters the archive? Through McQueen's satire, Margiela's cloned relics, and Kawakubo's outright refusal, three of fashion's most radical minds ask whether preservation is actually killing the craft.

FROM KILN TO CATWALK: THE CRAFTSMANSHIP BEHIND ROKH'S FRACTURED MOTION

In revisiting some of the most thought-provoking moments from recent seasons, Rokh’s Autumn/Winter 2025 show stands out as a masterclass in sculptural tailoring and conceptual storytelling.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Soft Goth

REMEMBER ME WHEN I LEAVE

Editorial| Japanese Designers

Junya Watanabe Spring 2027

CELEBRITIES DRESSING ON THE EDGE

Cemented at the forefront of the avant-garde, here are some looks from icons like Björk, Lady Gaga, and FKA Twigs that we cannot stop thinking about.

Dark Fashion| Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory

THE EVOLUTION OF AVANT-GARDE IN FASHION

Tracing avant-garde’s path from its revolutionary roots of Elsa Schiaparelli, Rei Kawakubo, and McQueen to today’s branches of gothic elegance.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Japanese Designers

JUNGIAN ARCHETYPES AND AVANT GARDE FASHION PERSONA

Carl Jung’s archetypes offer a new lens to decode avant-garde fashion. From Browne’s Trickster to Yamamoto’s Hermit, each silhouette becomes a vessel of the collective unconscious. Proof that fashion, at its most radical, speaks the language of the soul.

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Japanese Designers

7 GOTHIC FRAGRANCES FAR FROM BORING

Want to smell like bloody birthday cake, chilly nights in London, and burnt blunt?

Dark Fashion| Soft Goth

THE INFLUENCE OF GOTHIC STRUCTURE ON FASHION

Gothic cathedrals were built to overwhelm the soul, and their shadow still lingers in fashion. From the monumental visions of Alexander McQueen to the sculptural darkness of Rick Owens and the poetic ruins of Ann Demeulemeester, designers have long translated arches, spires, and sacred geometry into garments. In avant-garde fashion, the body becomes architecture. A cathedral of fabric where beauty, darkness, and devotion collide.

Dark Fashion| Design| Fashion Theory| Medieval core

FLESH AS ARCHITECTURE

Flesh As Architecture explores the human body as a constructed form rather than a living subject. e body is treated as a site of erosion - a ruin shaped by time, weight, and stillness. Through restrained movement and sculptural poses, flesh becomes structural. Limbs echo columns, joints resemble supports, and skin carries the surface of decay. What remains is not emotion, but form. The body no longer performs; it stands, monumental and silent, a ruin transformed into a statue.

THE GRACE OF WITHDRAWAL

Untitled, Untethered, Undefined

The new Dover Street Market brand was launched in June with the SS 26 collection of DSM Kei Ninomiya.

FIVE UNDERRATED BRANDS YOU SHOULD KNOW

These five underrated brands are quietly reshaping fashion with bold ideas and unique visions. Discover who’s flying under the radar and why they deserve your attention now.

Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers

THE PASSERBY

Dark Fashion| Editorial| Emerging Designers

GROTESQUE BEAUTY

Dissecting fashion's relationship with distorted, dark, and deformed imagery

Dark Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

TOP 10 ARTICLES :

1

INTERVIEW : VICTOR CLAVELLY'S SURREAL FASHION LORE

2

CORROSION AS CRAFT: RETHINKING FASHION THROUGH DECAY

3

THE GOTHIC REBIRTH OF MINIMALISM

4

THE EVOLUTION OF AVANT-GARDE IN FASHION

5

THE PASSERBY

6

HOW MCQUEEN MADE THE FASHION INDUSTRY DESCEND INTO MADNESS

7

WHAT "AVANT-GARDE" REALLY MEANS IN FASHION

8

EXPLORING THE UNTAPPED POTENTIAL OF FISH SKIN FOR FASHION: INTERVIEW WITH ISABELLE TAYLOR

9

LONG LIVE THE NEW FLESH: 6 TIMES DAVID CRONENBERG INSPIRED RUNWAY DESIGNERS

ARCHIVES :

Lonesome Heaven

Noir Kei Ninomiya SS27

Junya Watanabe Spring 2027

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2027

Issey Miyake Spring 2027

Rick Owens SS27

Uma Wang Spring/Summer 2027

In the Director’s Chair

Vaquera Spring/Summer 2027

The Third Skin

See all the archives editorials