Labbeye

L'Abbeye Issue I : the first chapter of the archive is now open for pre-order

A 400+ page coffee-table object documenting avant-garde fashion as philosophy, not trend. Standard edition 55€, Collector x Isaac Sellam 395€, 200 numbered copies.

Between Reins and Teeth

Following the death of the last horse in a stable, a man reveals a ritualistic scene, shaped by grief and the human-animal bond.

RECOMMENDED FOR YOU :

HEAVENLY BODIES REVISITED : FELLINI'S VATICAN RUNWAY, MODERN FASHION, AND OUR OBSESSION WITH RELIGIOUS SPECTACLE

While the recent media frenzy around the Vatican might have cooled off, fashion keeps returning to Catholic imagery, and perhaps that is no coincidence.

Art| Fashion Theory| Medieval core

PROTECTION FROM SOME ETERNITY

RAGS AND RICHES

Between memory and marketing, fashion has learned to fake its scars. As luxury brands sell dirt, rips, and wear at a high price, the Dirty Fit trend raises a deeper question: can authenticity be manufactured, or must it be lived? From inherited jewelry to torn runways, this article explores why real wear carries meaning and why pre-damaged fashion often rings hollow.

Eco Fashion| Fashion Theory

UPCOMING AVANT-GARDE JEWELLERY DESIGNERS YOU NEED TO KNOW !

Meet the Next Generation of Avant-Garde Jewellery

Accessories| Emerging Designers| Futuristic

THE POLITICS OF UGLINESS: ANTI-BEAUTY AND THE NEW AVANT-GARDE

When perfection becomes propaganda, ugliness becomes resistance. Across the avant-garde, designers are weaponising distortion, decay, and discomfort to fracture the polished surface of contemporary fashion. Transforming the grotesque into a radical language of defiance.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

THE GENESIS OF EMILIA

GETTING TO THE BONES OF IT: WHEN MORBID CURIOSITY MEETS FASHION

Exploring the use of bones and skeletons as imagery and motifs across avant-garde fashion and design

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

DREAMS, OBJECTS, AND SCHOCK VALUE : SCHIAPARELLI AND THE SURREALIST SPIRIT

We explore Elsa Schiaparelli’s relationship with Surrealism, from collaborations with artists like Dalí to how Daniel Roseberry’s recent collections reinterpret those codes for a contemporary audience.

Art| Fashion Theory

FLESH AS ARCHITECTURE

Flesh As Architecture explores the human body as a constructed form rather than a living subject. e body is treated as a site of erosion - a ruin shaped by time, weight, and stillness. Through restrained movement and sculptural poses, flesh becomes structural. Limbs echo columns, joints resemble supports, and skin carries the surface of decay. What remains is not emotion, but form. The body no longer performs; it stands, monumental and silent, a ruin transformed into a statue.

LONG LIVE THE NEW FLESH: 6 TIMES DAVID CRONENBERG INSPIRED RUNWAY DESIGNERS

To mark the release of The Shrouds, we revisit six moments when Cronenberg’s grotesque genius oozed into the world of fashion.

Cinema| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

WHEN MODERNITY MEETS THE MERKIN

Why the Fashion World is Exploring Hair… Down There

Accessories| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

7 GOTHIC FRAGRANCES FAR FROM BORING

Want to smell like bloody birthday cake, chilly nights in London, and burnt blunt?

Dark Fashion| Soft Goth

BETWEEN RITUAL AND RAWNESS: LEO PROTHMANN IN CONVERSATION WITH L'ABBEYE

Dark Fashion| Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers| Interviews

JUNGIAN ARCHETYPES AND AVANT GARDE FASHION PERSONA

Carl Jung’s archetypes offer a new lens to decode avant-garde fashion. From Browne’s Trickster to Yamamoto’s Hermit, each silhouette becomes a vessel of the collective unconscious. Proof that fashion, at its most radical, speaks the language of the soul.

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Japanese Designers

CLEMENTINE SMITH: UNWEARABLE FASHION, UNLIVABLE LIVES

Designing the Unwearable Inside an Inhospitable World...

Emerging Designers

TOP 10 ARTICLES :

1

INTERVIEW : VICTOR CLAVELLY'S SURREAL FASHION LORE

2

CORROSION AS CRAFT: RETHINKING FASHION THROUGH DECAY

3

THE GOTHIC REBIRTH OF MINIMALISM

4

THE EVOLUTION OF AVANT-GARDE IN FASHION

5

THE PASSERBY

6

HOW MCQUEEN MADE THE FASHION INDUSTRY DESCEND INTO MADNESS

7

WHAT "AVANT-GARDE" REALLY MEANS IN FASHION

8

EXPLORING THE UNTAPPED POTENTIAL OF FISH SKIN FOR FASHION: INTERVIEW WITH ISABELLE TAYLOR

9

LONG LIVE THE NEW FLESH: 6 TIMES DAVID CRONENBERG INSPIRED RUNWAY DESIGNERS

ARCHIVES :

Between Reins and Teeth

Following the death of the last horse in a stable, a man reveals a ritualistic scene, shaped by grief and the human-animal bond.

Cinema| Editorial

Weight of Despair

The Emotional Weight of Loss, Migration, and Memory. How Historical Trauma Transformed into Fashion.

The Avant-Garde Fashion Rite

When Fashion stops presenting clothes and starts staging ceremonies.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

Untitled, Untethered, Undefined

The new Dover Street Market brand was launched in June with the SS 26 collection of DSM Kei Ninomiya.

Neo Gothic and Neo Futurism

One aesthetic mourns the past. The other imagines the future. Between neo-gothic and neo-futurism, contemporary fashion continues to seek meaning anywhere but in the present.

Dark Fashion| Futuristic| Soft Goth

THE SUMMER IS COMING AND SO IS THE LAST JUDGMENT DAY: HOW TO DRESS "PROPERLY" ?

In summer, the body is no longer concealed. And dressing becomes a ritual of what we chose to elevate.

NIKOLAS SCHRECK - THE RENAISSANCE MONSTER

Artist, writer, filmmaker and former Radio Werewolf frontman, Nikolas Schreck has spent decades exploring the intersections of music, ritual, cinema and mythology. In this in-depth conversation, he reflects on the legacy of Radio Werewolf, his collaboration with Christopher Lee, the controversy of Charles Manson Superstar, and his vision of art as spiritual transmission in an age of digital distraction.

FLESH AS ARCHITECTURE

Flesh As Architecture explores the human body as a constructed form rather than a living subject. e body is treated as a site of erosion - a ruin shaped by time, weight, and stillness. Through restrained movement and sculptural poses, flesh becomes structural. Limbs echo columns, joints resemble supports, and skin carries the surface of decay. What remains is not emotion, but form. The body no longer performs; it stands, monumental and silent, a ruin transformed into a statue.

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER AW25: ROAD TO NEVER

MAINSTREAM DOWNSTREAM

In June 2003, along the quiet waters of Milan’s Naviglio Grande, Carol Christian Poell staged one of the most haunting fashion presentations of the 21st century. Far from the conventional runway, his Spring/Summer 2004 show unfolded on the surface of a canal, where garments and models alike drifted in silence, part procession, part apparition. Echoing the spectral stillness of Millais’s Ophelia, Poell’s vision transformed fashion into ritual, decay into desire, and garments into relics. This article revisits that unforgettable moment, where control gave way to current, and fashion, freed from speed and spectacle…

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

See all the archives editorials