Labbeye

ELENA DAWSON : THE GARDEN OF FORGOTTEN MEMORIES, A BOTANICAL ELEGY OF SOFTH GOTHIC

Elena Dawson is not a brand. It is a state of being, a phenomenon whose aura resists all attempts at categorization within fashion’s coordinate systems. Her creative work is a secluded sanctuary, a chapel on the outskirts of the industry. Here, a particular, deeply intimate romance is born : the romance of a soft gothic, devoid of vampiric pomp and grotesquery, yet imbued with Victorian melancholy and the stoic grace of decay.

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POST-HUMANISM: THE LESS HUMAN THE BODY BECOMES, THE MORE SACRED IT FEELS

The body disappears, distorts, expands. Not to become something else, but to escape being human at all.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

CELEBRITIES DRESSING ON THE EDGE

Cemented at the forefront of the avant-garde, here are some looks from icons like Björk, Lady Gaga, and FKA Twigs that we cannot stop thinking about.

Dark Fashion| Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory

BETWEEN RITUAL AND RAWNESS: LEO PROTHMANN IN CONVERSATION WITH L'ABBEYE

Dark Fashion| Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers| Interviews

7 GOTHIC FRAGRANCES FAR FROM BORING

Want to smell like bloody birthday cake, chilly nights in London, and burnt blunt?

Dark Fashion| Soft Goth

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN: THE FASHION DESIGNER WHO INVENTED WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY BEFORE AI

From transforming furniture into dresses to garments embedded with motors, lasers, and microchips, Hussein Chalayan revolutionized the relationship between fashion and technology. This article explores how the British-Cypriot designer became one of the earliest pioneers of wearable tech and conceptual fashion.

Art| Eco Fashion| Fashion Theory| Futuristic

ANNIE LENNOX: TEN LOOKS THROUGH THE LENS OF MUSIC AND IDENTITY

As she releases her Retrospective book, we chart the Eurythmics vocalist's looks across different musical eras, and how they shaped fashion, gender representation, and the visual vocabulary of pop.

Cinema| Fashion Theory

GROTESQUE BEAUTY

Dissecting fashion's relationship with distorted, dark, and deformed imagery

Dark Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

THE SUMMER IS COMING AND SO IS THE LAST JUDGMENT DAY: HOW TO DRESS "PROPERLY" ?

In summer, the body is no longer concealed. And dressing becomes a ritual of what we chose to elevate.

Fashion Theory

REMEMBER ME WHEN I LEAVE

Editorial| Japanese Designers

MISTAKING STONE FOR SKY

Art| Dark Fashion| Editorial| Emerging Designers| Grotesque Beauty

IRRÉEL

Editorial

DREAMS, OBJECTS, AND SCHOCK VALUE : SCHIAPARELLI AND THE SURREALIST SPIRIT

We explore Elsa Schiaparelli’s relationship with Surrealism, from collaborations with artists like Dalí to how Daniel Roseberry’s recent collections reinterpret those codes for a contemporary audience.

Art| Fashion Theory

MATERIAL INSTINCT: ZWYRTECH IN CONVERSATION WITH L’ABBEYE

Based in Warsaw, Zwyrtech blurs the line between jewellery and sculpture, embracing imperfection through a hands-on and exploratory process.

Accessories| Emerging Designers

DESERT COUTURE: THE FASHION EVOLUTION OF DUNE ON SCREEN

How directors like David Lynch, Alejandro Jodorowsky, and Denis Villeneuve envisioned Dune’s universe, and how it continues to inspire avant-garde fashion.

Art| Cinema| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Futuristic

FROM KILN TO CATWALK: THE CRAFTSMANSHIP BEHIND ROKH'S FRACTURED MOTION

In revisiting some of the most thought-provoking moments from recent seasons, Rokh’s Autumn/Winter 2025 show stands out as a masterclass in sculptural tailoring and conceptual storytelling.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Soft Goth

INTERVIEW : VICTOR CLAVELLY'S SURREAL FASHION LORE

CORROSION AS CRAFT: RETHINKING FASHION THROUGH DECAY

THE GOTHIC REBIRTH OF MINIMALISM

THE EVOLUTION OF AVANT-GARDE IN FASHION

THE PASSERBY

HOW MCQUEEN MADE THE FASHION INDUSTRY DESCEND INTO MADNESS

WHAT "AVANT-GARDE" REALLY MEANS IN FASHION

EXPLORING THE UNTAPPED POTENTIAL OF FISH SKIN FOR FASHION: INTERVIEW WITH ISABELLE TAYLOR

LONG LIVE THE NEW FLESH: 6 TIMES DAVID CRONENBERG INSPIRED RUNWAY DESIGNERS

THE SUMMER IS COMING AND SO IS THE LAST JUDGMENT DAY: HOW TO DRESS "PROPERLY" ?

In summer, the body is no longer concealed. And dressing becomes a ritual of what we chose to elevate.

Fashion Theory

NIKOLAS SCHRECK - THE RENAISSANCE MONSTER

Artist, writer, filmmaker and former Radio Werewolf frontman, Nikolas Schreck has spent decades exploring the intersections of music, ritual, cinema and mythology. In this in-depth conversation, he reflects on the legacy of Radio Werewolf, his collaboration with Christopher Lee, the controversy of Charles Manson Superstar, and his vision of art as spiritual transmission in an age of digital distraction.

FLESH AS ARCHITECTURE

Flesh As Architecture explores the human body as a constructed form rather than a living subject. e body is treated as a site of erosion - a ruin shaped by time, weight, and stillness. Through restrained movement and sculptural poses, flesh becomes structural. Limbs echo columns, joints resemble supports, and skin carries the surface of decay. What remains is not emotion, but form. The body no longer performs; it stands, monumental and silent, a ruin transformed into a statue.

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER AW25: ROAD TO NEVER

Editorial

MAINSTREAM DOWNSTREAM

In June 2003, along the quiet waters of Milan’s Naviglio Grande, Carol Christian Poell staged one of the most haunting fashion presentations of the 21st century. Far from the conventional runway, his Spring/Summer 2004 show unfolded on the surface of a canal, where garments and models alike drifted in silence, part procession, part apparition. Echoing the spectral stillness of Millais’s Ophelia, Poell’s vision transformed fashion into ritual, decay into desire, and garments into relics. This article revisits that unforgettable moment, where control gave way to current, and fashion, freed from speed and spectacle…

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

RAGS AND RICHES

Between memory and marketing, fashion has learned to fake its scars. As luxury brands sell dirt, rips, and wear at a high price, the Dirty Fit trend raises a deeper question: can authenticity be manufactured, or must it be lived? From inherited jewelry to torn runways, this article explores why real wear carries meaning and why pre-damaged fashion often rings hollow.

Eco Fashion| Fashion Theory

QUEERING THE UNIFORM : SUBVERSION, KINK AND THE MILITARISATION OF STYLE

Uniforms were meant to discipline bodies and erase individuality. Yet in the hands of avant-garde designers, they become something else entirely: instruments of desire, rebellion, and identity play. From the fragile adolescent tension of Raf Simons to the hyper-queer provocations of Walter van Beirendonck and the sleek militarised sensuality of Helmut Lang, the uniform is no longer a symbol of obedience but a stage where power, vulnerability, and eroticism collide.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

UNWEARABLE FUTURES : FASHION AS CONCEPTUAL ARCHITECTURE

Avant-garde designers like Iris van Herpen, Gareth Pugh and Hussein Chalayan are redefining fashion as architecture. In this emerging landscape of “unwearable fashion,” garments become sculptural experiments that challenge wearability, identity and the future of the human body.

Art| Fashion Theory| Futuristic

FASHION AS RITUAL: COSTUMING THE SACRED AND THE OCCULT

Fashion has always flirted with the sacred, but a new generation of designers is turning garments into rituals. From the techno-shamanic visions of House of Malakai to the monastic mythologies of Rick Owens, clothing becomes more than appearance, it becomes invocation. These pieces function like talismans, charged with symbolism, intention, and transformation. In an age of digital noise, fashion begins to reclaim its oldest power: ritual.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

7 PAIRS OF AVANT GARDE KILLER FOOTWEAR

Stepping on necks in terrifyingly beautiful shoes by designers like Rick Owens, Myah Hasbany, and Comme Des Garçons

Accessories| Dark Fashion| Emerging Designers| Futuristic| Japanese Designers

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RECOMMENDED FOR YOU :

The body disappears, distorts, expands. Not to become something else, but to escape being human at all.

Cemented at the forefront of the avant-garde, here are some looks from icons like Björk, Lady Gaga, and FKA Twigs that we cannot stop thinking about.

Want to smell like bloody birthday cake, chilly nights in London, and burnt blunt?

As she releases her Retrospective book, we chart the Eurythmics vocalist's looks across different musical eras, and how they shaped fashion, gender representation, and the visual vocabulary of pop.

Dissecting fashion's relationship with distorted, dark, and deformed imagery

In summer, the body is no longer concealed. And dressing becomes a ritual of what we chose to elevate.

We explore Elsa Schiaparelli’s relationship with Surrealism, from collaborations with artists like Dalí to how Daniel Roseberry’s recent collections reinterpret those codes for a contemporary audience.

Based in Warsaw, Zwyrtech blurs the line between jewellery and sculpture, embracing imperfection through a hands-on and exploratory process.

How directors like David Lynch, Alejandro Jodorowsky, and Denis Villeneuve envisioned Dune’s universe, and how it continues to inspire avant-garde fashion.

In revisiting some of the most thought-provoking moments from recent seasons, Rokh’s Autumn/Winter 2025 show stands out as a masterclass in sculptural tailoring and conceptual storytelling.

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In summer, the body is no longer concealed. And dressing becomes a ritual of what we chose to elevate.

Avant-garde designers like Iris van Herpen, Gareth Pugh and Hussein Chalayan are redefining fashion as architecture. In this emerging landscape of “unwearable fashion,” garments become sculptural experiments that challenge wearability, identity and the future of the human body.

Stepping on necks in terrifyingly beautiful shoes by designers like Rick Owens, Myah Hasbany, and Comme Des Garçons

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