L'ABBEYE Issue I

L'Abbeye Issue I : the first chapter of the archive is now open for pre-order

A 400+ page coffee-table object documenting avant-garde fashion as philosophy, not trend. Standard edition 55€, Collector x Isaac Sellam 395€, 200 numbered copies.

Pre-order now

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Uniforms were meant to discipline bodies and erase individuality. Yet in the hands of avant-garde designers, they become something else entirely: instruments of desire, rebellion, and identity play. From the fragile adolescent tension of Raf Simons to the hyper-queer provocations of Walter van Beirendonck and the sleek militarised sensuality of Helmut Lang, the uniform is no longer a symbol of obedience but a stage where power, vulnerability, and eroticism collide.

Carl Jung’s archetypes offer a new lens to decode avant-garde fashion. From Browne’s Trickster to Yamamoto’s Hermit, each silhouette becomes a vessel of the collective unconscious. Proof that fashion, at its most radical, speaks the language of the soul.

Why the Fashion World is Exploring Hair… Down There

The Emotional Weight of Loss, Migration, and Memory. How Historical Trauma Transformed into Fashion.

The Swedish designer presented her first London Fashion Week collection as an independent brand at Studio Smithfield.

Following the death of the last horse in a stable, a man reveals a ritualistic scene, shaped by grief and the human-animal bond.

A pressed flower keeps its shape but loses its life, is that what happens to fashion once it enters the archive? Through McQueen's satire, Margiela's cloned relics, and Kawakubo's outright refusal, three of fashion's most radical minds ask whether preservation is actually killing the craft.

Why gothic romance literature and media are at the root of the avant-garde scene

Tracing avant-garde’s path from its revolutionary roots of Elsa Schiaparelli, Rei Kawakubo, and McQueen to today’s branches of gothic elegance.

When perfection becomes propaganda, ugliness becomes resistance. Across the avant-garde, designers are weaponising distortion, decay, and discomfort to fracture the polished surface of contemporary fashion. Transforming the grotesque into a radical language of defiance.

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A pressed flower keeps its shape but loses its life, is that what happens to fashion once it enters the archive? Through McQueen's satire, Margiela's cloned relics, and Kawakubo's outright refusal, three of fashion's most radical minds ask whether preservation is actually killing the craft.

Egúngún masqueraders, Benin. Elaborately layered costumes conceal the performers’ identities, transforming them into figures of ancestral ritual.

Following the death of the last horse in a stable, a man reveals a ritualistic scene, shaped by grief and the human-animal bond.

The Emotional Weight of Loss, Migration, and Memory. How Historical Trauma Transformed into Fashion.

When Fashion stops presenting clothes and starts staging ceremonies.

The new Dover Street Market brand was launched in June with the SS 26 collection of DSM Kei Ninomiya.

One aesthetic mourns the past. The other imagines the future. Between neo-gothic and neo-futurism, contemporary fashion continues to seek meaning anywhere but in the present.

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