Labbeye

L'Abbeye Issue I : the first chapter of the archive is now open for pre-order

A 400+ page coffee-table object documenting avant-garde fashion as philosophy, not trend. Standard edition 55€, Collector x Isaac Sellam 395€, 200 numbered copies.

Paris Photo 2026 at Dover Street Market Paris

Impressions that linger: For Paris Photo 2026, DSM brings together photographic works that capture the energy of the fair in an unconventional, radically creative setting.

RECOMMENDED FOR YOU :

RAGS AND RICHES

Between memory and marketing, fashion has learned to fake its scars. As luxury brands sell dirt, rips, and wear at a high price, the Dirty Fit trend raises a deeper question: can authenticity be manufactured, or must it be lived? From inherited jewelry to torn runways, this article explores why real wear carries meaning and why pre-damaged fashion often rings hollow.

Eco Fashion| Fashion Theory

Enfants Riches Déprimés Spring 2027

The Ninety Nine Percent

Final Collection - Home, A Self Study

GWERTHWYD (SOLD)

HOW JAPANESE DESIGNERS SHAPED THE FUTURE OF AVANT-GARDE FASHION

Japanese designers redefined avant-garde by merging tradition, philosophy, and innovation. From deconstruction to minimalism, their influence reshaped Western fashion and continues to inspire a generation seeking authenticity over perfection.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Japanese Designers

The Photographer Who Made Avant-Garde Fashion Visible

How Nick Knight transformed fashion photography into a world of imagination and possibility.

Art| Fashion Theory

TO BE WORN OR TO BE WATCHED

In light of recent exhibitions like Demna’s retrospective at the Kering headquarters and Rick Owens’ Temple of Love, we explore the tension between fashion as something to be worn and fashion as something to be preserved and exhibited.

Art| Fashion Theory

Why Personality Fades Without the Avant-Garde

Breaking the Consumer Mindset and Reclaiming Personal Taste

UNWEARABLE FUTURES : FASHION AS CONCEPTUAL ARCHITECTURE

Avant-garde designers like Iris van Herpen, Gareth Pugh and Hussein Chalayan are redefining fashion as architecture. In this emerging landscape of “unwearable fashion,” garments become sculptural experiments that challenge wearability, identity and the future of the human body.

Art| Fashion Theory| Futuristic

MAINSTREAM DOWNSTREAM

In June 2003, along the quiet waters of Milan’s Naviglio Grande, Carol Christian Poell staged one of the most haunting fashion presentations of the 21st century. Far from the conventional runway, his Spring/Summer 2004 show unfolded on the surface of a canal, where garments and models alike drifted in silence, part procession, part apparition. Echoing the spectral stillness of Millais’s Ophelia, Poell’s vision transformed fashion into ritual, decay into desire, and garments into relics. This article revisits that unforgettable moment, where control gave way to current, and fashion, freed from speed and spectacle…

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

ELENA DAWSON : THE GARDEN OF FORGOTTEN MEMORIES, A BOTANICAL ELEGY OF SOFTH GOTHIC

Elena Dawson is not a brand. It is a state of being, a phenomenon whose aura resists all attempts at categorization within fashion’s coordinate systems. Her creative work is a secluded sanctuary, a chapel on the outskirts of the industry. Here, a particular, deeply intimate romance is born : the romance of a soft gothic, devoid of vampiric pomp and grotesquery, yet imbued with Victorian melancholy and the stoic grace of decay.

Dark Fashion| Eco Fashion| Fashion Theory| Soft Goth

From Alexander McQueen to Matières Fécales: Embracing Your Quirky, Offbeat, and Unique Side

Fashion's most unsettling silhouettes are not mistakes, they are refusals. A look at how the grotesque became one of style’s sharpest tools of dissent.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

DREAMS, OBJECTS, AND SCHOCK VALUE : SCHIAPARELLI AND THE SURREALIST SPIRIT

We explore Elsa Schiaparelli’s relationship with Surrealism, from collaborations with artists like Dalí to how Daniel Roseberry’s recent collections reinterpret those codes for a contemporary audience.

Art| Fashion Theory

Issey Miyake Spring 2027

TOP 10 ARTICLES :

1

INTERVIEW : VICTOR CLAVELLY'S SURREAL FASHION LORE

2

CORROSION AS CRAFT: RETHINKING FASHION THROUGH DECAY

3

THE GOTHIC REBIRTH OF MINIMALISM

4

THE EVOLUTION OF AVANT-GARDE IN FASHION

5

THE PASSERBY

6

HOW MCQUEEN MADE THE FASHION INDUSTRY DESCEND INTO MADNESS

7

WHAT "AVANT-GARDE" REALLY MEANS IN FASHION

8

EXPLORING THE UNTAPPED POTENTIAL OF FISH SKIN FOR FASHION: INTERVIEW WITH ISABELLE TAYLOR

9

LONG LIVE THE NEW FLESH: 6 TIMES DAVID CRONENBERG INSPIRED RUNWAY DESIGNERS

ARCHIVES :

Wear, Tear and Patina

Can Luxury Be a Counterculture?

Bourdieu, Enfants Riches Déprimés, and the Limits of Irony

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

Paris Photo 2026 at Dover Street Market Paris

Impressions that linger: For Paris Photo 2026, DSM brings together photographic works that capture the energy of the fair in an unconventional, radically creative setting.

Strange Beings in a Strange Land

The Paradox of Subversion: How Chanel Turned the Naked Shoe into Status

Decades after Jeremy Scott challenged traditional footwear, the barefoot sandal returns. Can extreme design still be radical in an era of viral luxury?

Otherwise Worn

Marc Le Bihan in motion: a photographic collaboration between Dilettante and Co3 Contemporary Dance.

Blind Spots

Religion as an Aesthetic

Can You Wear the Sacred Without Believing in It?

L’ABBEYE Selects: Three Shows of PFW SS27

The Space in Between

See all the archives editorials