Labbeye

L'Abbeye Issue I : the first chapter of the archive is now open for pre-order

A 400+ page coffee-table object documenting avant-garde fashion as philosophy, not trend. Standard edition 55€, Collector x Isaac Sellam 395€, 200 numbered copies.

The Ninety Nine Percent

RECOMMENDED FOR YOU :

HOW JAPANESE DESIGNERS SHAPED THE FUTURE OF AVANT-GARDE FASHION

Japanese designers redefined avant-garde by merging tradition, philosophy, and innovation. From deconstruction to minimalism, their influence reshaped Western fashion and continues to inspire a generation seeking authenticity over perfection.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Japanese Designers

FLESH AS ARCHITECTURE

Flesh As Architecture explores the human body as a constructed form rather than a living subject. e body is treated as a site of erosion - a ruin shaped by time, weight, and stillness. Through restrained movement and sculptural poses, flesh becomes structural. Limbs echo columns, joints resemble supports, and skin carries the surface of decay. What remains is not emotion, but form. The body no longer performs; it stands, monumental and silent, a ruin transformed into a statue.

FROM KILN TO CATWALK: THE CRAFTSMANSHIP BEHIND ROKH'S FRACTURED MOTION

In revisiting some of the most thought-provoking moments from recent seasons, Rokh’s Autumn/Winter 2025 show stands out as a masterclass in sculptural tailoring and conceptual storytelling.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Soft Goth

FIVE UNDERRATED BRANDS YOU SHOULD KNOW

These five underrated brands are quietly reshaping fashion with bold ideas and unique visions. Discover who’s flying under the radar and why they deserve your attention now.

Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers

PETRA FAGERSTRÖM RE-INTERPRETS HOW CONDITIONED DYNAMICS IMPRINT ON WOMANHOOD

The Swedish designer presented her first London Fashion Week collection as an independent brand at Studio Smithfield.

Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory

TO BE WORN OR TO BE WATCHED

In light of recent exhibitions like Demna’s retrospective at the Kering headquarters and Rick Owens’ Temple of Love, we explore the tension between fashion as something to be worn and fashion as something to be preserved and exhibited.

Art| Fashion Theory

THESE FURNITURE AND DECOR BRANDS WILL HELP YOU LIVE INSIDE A WORK OF ART

Think of homes that feel more like installations, minimal to the extreme, anti cozy, sometimes even intentionally disorienting.

Art| Design| Fashion Theory

WHAT "AVANT-GARDE" REALLY MEANS IN FASHION

“Avant-garde” gets thrown around a lot in fashion, but where does it come from, and what does it actually mean? From its radical roots to its presence in lifestyle and design, here is what truly sets avant-garde apart from passing trends.

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Japanese Designers

EXPLORING THE UNTAPPED POTENTIAL OF FISH SKIN FOR FASHION: INTERVIEW WITH ISABELLE TAYLOR

Isabelle Taylor is a beautifully unconventional surrealist fashion designer specialising in fish leather, a sustainable material made from the byproducts of smoked salmon, which she uses to create garments through her brand, Skinned Potential.

Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory| Interviews

PROTECTION FROM SOME ETERNITY

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN: THE FASHION DESIGNER WHO INVENTED WEARABLE TECHNOLOGY BEFORE AI

From transforming furniture into dresses to garments embedded with motors, lasers, and microchips, Hussein Chalayan revolutionized the relationship between fashion and technology. This article explores how the British-Cypriot designer became one of the earliest pioneers of wearable tech and conceptual fashion.

Art| Eco Fashion| Fashion Theory| Futuristic

CAROL CHRISTIAN POELL: AGAINST FASHION, THROUGH FASHION

For those stepping into the avant-garde realm of fashion, Carol Christian Poell is an essential figure. Though now retired, his legacy endures. Through radical construction, cryptic processes, and garments that confront both the body and time, his influence continues to shape the fashion world.

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

RAGS AND RICHES

Between memory and marketing, fashion has learned to fake its scars. As luxury brands sell dirt, rips, and wear at a high price, the Dirty Fit trend raises a deeper question: can authenticity be manufactured, or must it be lived? From inherited jewelry to torn runways, this article explores why real wear carries meaning and why pre-damaged fashion often rings hollow.

Eco Fashion| Fashion Theory

Between Veils

MAINSTREAM DOWNSTREAM

In June 2003, along the quiet waters of Milan’s Naviglio Grande, Carol Christian Poell staged one of the most haunting fashion presentations of the 21st century. Far from the conventional runway, his Spring/Summer 2004 show unfolded on the surface of a canal, where garments and models alike drifted in silence, part procession, part apparition. Echoing the spectral stillness of Millais’s Ophelia, Poell’s vision transformed fashion into ritual, decay into desire, and garments into relics. This article revisits that unforgettable moment, where control gave way to current, and fashion, freed from speed and spectacle…

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

TOP 10 ARTICLES :

1

INTERVIEW : VICTOR CLAVELLY'S SURREAL FASHION LORE

2

CORROSION AS CRAFT: RETHINKING FASHION THROUGH DECAY

3

THE GOTHIC REBIRTH OF MINIMALISM

4

THE EVOLUTION OF AVANT-GARDE IN FASHION

5

THE PASSERBY

6

HOW MCQUEEN MADE THE FASHION INDUSTRY DESCEND INTO MADNESS

7

WHAT "AVANT-GARDE" REALLY MEANS IN FASHION

8

EXPLORING THE UNTAPPED POTENTIAL OF FISH SKIN FOR FASHION: INTERVIEW WITH ISABELLE TAYLOR

9

LONG LIVE THE NEW FLESH: 6 TIMES DAVID CRONENBERG INSPIRED RUNWAY DESIGNERS

ARCHIVES :

The Ninety Nine Percent

The "Next Door" of Life

Rewriting the Code

MM6 Maison Margiela SS27 and the Havaianas Collaboration

Is There Such a Thing as a “System of Fashion”?

Why modern runways stopped being a text to read, and became a sensation to feel.

The Shape You Are Pressed Into

What’s in Store: Inside Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme AW26/27

Japanese Designers

Why Personality Fades Without the Avant-Garde

Breaking the Consumer Mindset and Reclaiming Personal Taste

GWERTHWYD (SOLD)

Final Collection - Home, A Self Study

The Roman Empire of Etymology

A History of Goth

See all the archives editorials