Labbeye

L'Abbeye Issue I : the first chapter of the archive is now open for pre-order

A 400+ page coffee-table object documenting avant-garde fashion as philosophy, not trend. Standard edition 55€, Collector x Isaac Sellam 395€, 200 numbered copies.

Scenes from an Unwritten Play

RECOMMENDED FOR YOU :

7 GOTHIC FRAGRANCES FAR FROM BORING

Want to smell like bloody birthday cake, chilly nights in London, and burnt blunt?

Dark Fashion| Soft Goth

MAINSTREAM DOWNSTREAM

In June 2003, along the quiet waters of Milan’s Naviglio Grande, Carol Christian Poell staged one of the most haunting fashion presentations of the 21st century. Far from the conventional runway, his Spring/Summer 2004 show unfolded on the surface of a canal, where garments and models alike drifted in silence, part procession, part apparition. Echoing the spectral stillness of Millais’s Ophelia, Poell’s vision transformed fashion into ritual, decay into desire, and garments into relics. This article revisits that unforgettable moment, where control gave way to current, and fashion, freed from speed and spectacle…

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

DREAMS, OBJECTS, AND SCHOCK VALUE : SCHIAPARELLI AND THE SURREALIST SPIRIT

We explore Elsa Schiaparelli’s relationship with Surrealism, from collaborations with artists like Dalí to how Daniel Roseberry’s recent collections reinterpret those codes for a contemporary audience.

Art| Fashion Theory

CORROSION AS CRAFT: RETHINKING FASHION THROUGH DECAY

What if beauty wasn’t preserved, but allowed to rust? Justin Matringe turns decay into design, crafting garments that corrode the very idea of fashion itself.

Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory| Interviews

Weight of Despair

The Emotional Weight of Loss, Migration, and Memory. How Historical Trauma Transformed into Fashion.

UNWEARABLE FUTURES : FASHION AS CONCEPTUAL ARCHITECTURE

Avant-garde designers like Iris van Herpen, Gareth Pugh and Hussein Chalayan are redefining fashion as architecture. In this emerging landscape of “unwearable fashion,” garments become sculptural experiments that challenge wearability, identity and the future of the human body.

Art| Fashion Theory| Futuristic

UPCOMING AVANT-GARDE JEWELLERY DESIGNERS YOU NEED TO KNOW !

Meet the Next Generation of Avant-Garde Jewellery

Accessories| Emerging Designers| Futuristic

CELEBRITIES DRESSING ON THE EDGE

Cemented at the forefront of the avant-garde, here are some looks from icons like Björk, Lady Gaga, and FKA Twigs that we cannot stop thinking about.

Dark Fashion| Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory

‘A WALK IN THE FOREST’ WITH ANTONIO FEMIA

Womenswear designer Antonio Femia looks to the hometown forests in Belgium for his graduate collection at Central Saint Martins. Bridget Devine discovers more about his ritualistic design universe...

Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers| Fashion Theory| Interviews

JUNGIAN ARCHETYPES AND AVANT GARDE FASHION PERSONA

Carl Jung’s archetypes offer a new lens to decode avant-garde fashion. From Browne’s Trickster to Yamamoto’s Hermit, each silhouette becomes a vessel of the collective unconscious. Proof that fashion, at its most radical, speaks the language of the soul.

Art| Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Japanese Designers

QUEERING THE UNIFORM : SUBVERSION, KINK AND THE MILITARISATION OF STYLE

Uniforms were meant to discipline bodies and erase individuality. Yet in the hands of avant-garde designers, they become something else entirely: instruments of desire, rebellion, and identity play. From the fragile adolescent tension of Raf Simons to the hyper-queer provocations of Walter van Beirendonck and the sleek militarised sensuality of Helmut Lang, the uniform is no longer a symbol of obedience but a stage where power, vulnerability, and eroticism collide.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory

HEAVENLY BODIES REVISITED : FELLINI'S VATICAN RUNWAY, MODERN FASHION, AND OUR OBSESSION WITH RELIGIOUS SPECTACLE

While the recent media frenzy around the Vatican might have cooled off, fashion keeps returning to Catholic imagery, and perhaps that is no coincidence.

Art| Fashion Theory| Medieval core

IN LIKENESS

FIVE UNDERRATED BRANDS YOU SHOULD KNOW

These five underrated brands are quietly reshaping fashion with bold ideas and unique visions. Discover who’s flying under the radar and why they deserve your attention now.

Eco Fashion| Emerging Designers

NIKOLAS SCHRECK - THE RENAISSANCE MONSTER

Artist, writer, filmmaker and former Radio Werewolf frontman, Nikolas Schreck has spent decades exploring the intersections of music, ritual, cinema and mythology. In this in-depth conversation, he reflects on the legacy of Radio Werewolf, his collaboration with Christopher Lee, the controversy of Charles Manson Superstar, and his vision of art as spiritual transmission in an age of digital distraction.

TOP 10 ARTICLES :

1

INTERVIEW : VICTOR CLAVELLY'S SURREAL FASHION LORE

2

CORROSION AS CRAFT: RETHINKING FASHION THROUGH DECAY

3

THE GOTHIC REBIRTH OF MINIMALISM

4

THE EVOLUTION OF AVANT-GARDE IN FASHION

5

THE PASSERBY

6

HOW MCQUEEN MADE THE FASHION INDUSTRY DESCEND INTO MADNESS

7

WHAT "AVANT-GARDE" REALLY MEANS IN FASHION

8

EXPLORING THE UNTAPPED POTENTIAL OF FISH SKIN FOR FASHION: INTERVIEW WITH ISABELLE TAYLOR

9

LONG LIVE THE NEW FLESH: 6 TIMES DAVID CRONENBERG INSPIRED RUNWAY DESIGNERS

ARCHIVES :

Between Veils

The Photographer Who Made Avant-Garde Fashion Visible

How Nick Knight transformed fashion photography into a world of imagination and possibility.

Art| Fashion Theory

Scenes from an Unwritten Play

Rusted Dreams

Accessories| Editorial

From Alexander McQueen to Matières Fécales: Embracing Your Quirky, Offbeat, and Unique Side

Fashion's most unsettling silhouettes are not mistakes, they are refusals. A look at how the grotesque became one of style’s sharpest tools of dissent.

Dark Fashion| Fashion Theory| Grotesque Beauty

Ectopic

The Threshold

Archives as Garments: In or Out?

A pressed flower keeps its shape but loses its life, is that what happens to fashion once it enters the archive? Through McQueen's satire, Margiela's cloned relics, and Kawakubo's outright refusal, three of fashion's most radical minds ask whether preservation is actually killing the craft.

The Circus Girl

Pauline Dujancourt

Design| Emerging Designers

See all the archives editorials